Walking in the country was high on the agenda when the Doves re-located to Surrey after twenty years in London. We moved in the summer of 2010 and POD arrived on Christmas Day that year. Having given my coccyx and pelvis a battering in labour, lengthy walks are currently off the agenda. Short ones aren’t though and we regularly check out what the Surrey countryside has to offer. Recent finds include The Secret Pool and the ruins of Waverley but we have lots more discovering to do.
Rather amusingly, my most memorable walk was a hike. I didn’t know it at the time. Whilst in New Zealand, a couple of friends suggested we do the Tongariro Crossing. They described it as a ‘gentle walk’. We forgot they are fit.
Some say the volcanic peaks of Ngauruhoe, Tongariro and Ruapehu are among the top ten single-day treks in the world. It’s 19.4 kilometres long, at an altitude of up to 1,800 metres, and its popular because of its phenomenal scenery. It’s a far cry from the gentle walk.
That said the track was fairly flat at first. Well formed and board walked in damp areas to provide stability under foot. We then followed a stream around the edge of an old lava flow in the sunshine. It was all rather lovely. New Zealand is a fabulous country.
When we hit the Devil’s Staircase the fun really began (I wish I had a photo to share). Stepping over uneven layers of ancient and modern lava flows and volcanic deposits was *seriously* hard work. The temperature changed dramatically. I re-broke two toes but there was no going back. At the top of the Devil’s staircase, the view down the valley and out across the surrounding countryside was amazing.
After a brief spell walking on the flat, passing South Crater, we were faced with another walk uphill on an exposed ridge to the Red Crater. Here we enjoyed some spectacular views across the Oturere Valley, Rangipo Desert, Kaimanawa Ranges and down towards the Emerald Lakes.
The descent from the Red Crater posed a different challenge in that the loose scoria underfoot moved quickly. Quite refreshing doing a spot of sliding after the Devil’s Staircase. The Emerald Lakes were something else, incredible views. Minerals leached from the surrounding rock cause the beautiful turquoise colour.
The climb to the edge of the North Crater was easier. It was once filled with molten lava and then cooled and solidified to give a level surface more than 1000m wide. From there we followed the route down the Ketetahi Springs where minerals in the water had stained the rocks. It was a lengthy journey to the finish. Although mostly downhill, two broken toes sliding to the front of your walking boots every time you take a step is not pleasant.
We finished the Tongariro Crossing in 6.5 hours (with the average 7-9 hours). Not bad all things considered. Once we’d quenched our thirst (we ran out of water an hour before the finish), we rewarded ourselves with a *large* ice cold lager. We had jelly legs for days afterwards. Truly an unforgettable walk.